Master point carabiner What kind of carabiners do you use for your master point in a top rope anchor? I usually use two petzl attaches but I have a friend who always insists on using locking oval biners as he says the rope slides through more easily when they're opposite and opposed. Key Points The Anchor Should: 1. Aug 16, 2021 · Likewise, a master point carabiner is the main carabiner clipped through your anchor’s master point loop or knot. Have little or no possible extension (shock loading). Below we will review the technical aspects and key factors in choosing a locking carabiner. 2. Another similar looking method uses a clove hitch instead of a girth hitch to achieve many of the same advantages, however I find the girth hitch slightly faster and easier to tie. Jul 11, 2020 · The Girth Hitch Master Point Carabiner is a slick new solution to add to your repertoire. If I want the masterpoint in a relatively fixed location I use single-masterpoint anchor such as a figure-eight on a bite, a girth hitch masterpoint, or a clove hitch masterpoint. Mar 3, 2019 · Doing this allows everyone except the last person to start their rappel right at the anchor. The last person removes the sling and carabiner, extends the master point to the edge of the ledge, and performs the somewhat awkward rappel start, leaving the rope in a better position for a successful retrieval. Aug 15, 2019 · There are lockers for belaying, rappelling, using as a master point of an anchor or at the end of a personal anchor system (PAS), and lightweight/compact lockers for building complex, equalized anchors for top-roping or on multi-pitch climbs. The Girth Hitch Master Point Carabiner is a slick new solution to add to your repertoire. Jun 21, 2023 · Steel carabiners are also larger than aluminum carabiners. Key point: use a locking carabiner (or at least two opposite and opposed standard carabiners) at any sort of critical link, if the failure of that link would be YGD (Yer Gonna Die). Sep 27, 2019 · Keeps the master point carabiner properly oriented, it can never spin and become cross loaded Easy to untie after it’s been loaded (no welded knot to deal with) Easier to tie and untie if hands are sore and/or cold, or you’re wearing gloves Vs. Below that is a pic from the guide showing how to set up a sliding X. Feb 27, 2019 · When I get to an anchor station (often bolts), the first thing to do is put in a master carabiner – ideally not into the main abseil/belay point. This carabiner will typically be used to hang your guide mode belay device, as well as being a handy point of attachment for your personal anchor and other gear. So, take a moment before you clip that master point carabiner to have a look at where the rope is running down the pitch. Be as simple as possible. Any insights or firsthand experience with these setups? Or other recommendations for the master point carabiners? The Edelrid Bullet Proof HMS also seem like a fairly obvious but more expensive choice. Mar 31, 2020 · The same argument could be made for an anchor using a figure-8 master point - why not just have everything go into the master carabiner and forget using the shelf - unless you want to belay directly off the shelf to get the belay point a bit higher? Some people do use master carabiners for knotted anchors. Jun 7, 2020 · Note: Carabiners are strongest when loaded along the spine. Using the shelf One advantage of the overhand-knot anchor is that it gives you the option of a higher attachment point for the belay device. Modern aluminum keylock carabiners also make clipping bolt hangers easier. Nov 4, 2022 · Both the Photons and Phantoms are highly rated by Outdoor Gear Lab as well. In that case, the load on each side of the rope would be 1x the climbers weight and the load at the belay anchor would be 2x climber's weight. If the anchor is where I want the rope to run I use two quickdraws. Imagine a frictionless pulley at your MP. Unlike the carabiner used for the master point in a quad, this one needs to be large enough to accept six strands of cord and then the rope as well. . The Jake is equipped with a side-swing gate that provides sizable clearance and ease of use; this combined with the spacious basket make it ideal as a master-point carabiner. Summary. 4. The Clove Hitch Master Point Carabiner Method. This is okay for some scenarios, like the master point of a top rope. I use three non-locking ovals O&O. (I used "weight" to simplify the concept) May 7, 2025 · A fantastic and secure carabiner choice for belaying, rappelling, or for master points: Our favorite personal locker is great for building anchors: The simplest and most versatile anti-crossloading locking carabiner: An ideal locker for belaying, and great choice for a top-rope anchor: A unique tool for greater peace of mind while leading Oct 13, 2021 · Either works. This allows me to place the master Aug 16, 2021 · Likewise, a master point carabiner is the main carabiner clipped through your anchor’s master point loop or knot. Feb 21, 2020 · It’s nice to have your master point carabiner be a locker, but if you don't have one, two regular carabiners clipped opposite and opposed is okay also. Have redundancy to the master point carabiner. However, the compact size of aluminum lockers is hard to beat, especially when the real estate in bolt hangers is limited. 3. Jun 12, 2012 · Notice that it says 'master point carabiner' - singular. When you bring up your second, that will be a larger load than just holding your body weight. Then several things are clipped in this such as a cows tail, safety line, pack or anything else. May 6, 2019 · The black locking carabiner inside the master point knot will make untying the sling a lot easier. Again, just a single locker at the master point. It is not a “solve-all” solution but based on context I can see this option being used efficiently and effectively in many situations. The Keylock design prevents snagging on ropes, webbing, and hardware. That's actually a very good point about increasing friction. ndn episz ifv iaq bodxhv qnoatb cuwmayvi lqmxn rtghsbl bzwfr